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When people think of Croatia, they usually picture the Adriatic coast – Dubrovnik’s medieval walls or Hvar’s glamorous beaches. Of course, those mesmerizing images of tourquise water and old stone towns of coastal Croatia are just one face of our beautiful country.
Yet, just inland lies a city that deserves more attention: Zagreb, the lively and welcoming capital of Croatia.
When I look back now, growing up in Zagreb was like living in a fairytale. It was neat and organized, a city without crowds and crime, relaxed and with that special joy that only cities with snow have in winter! Much has changed since and the number of cars has grown..still, after all my wanderings, I came back to stay in Zagreb!
A City Where Nature Is Part of Daily Life
Sledgind and skiing in Zagreb is something that not many cities can take pride of having as their usual winter activities. Zagreb has it all! Sljeme peack at mountain Medvednica (The Bear Mountain!) has been recently re-disovered and it all started with the new Cable car that was installed few years ago. Now we have a sensational 5Km cable car ride from virtually citi’s streets to the mountain top. Sljeme TV tower offers panoramic views and forest trails provide a refreshing escape from the city’s bustle, a perfect blend of urban and natural experiences. Those who know their way around know that there is some lovely country food to be enjoyed in Tomislavov dom (iconic small hotel for the mountain lovers).
Nature is never far away when you live in Zagreb!
Another iconic place sits within Zagreb’s suburban area.
I vividly remember the splendid 1987 University Games, which sparked major development in the city — most notably Jarun Lake, built especially for the event. Today, its 7 km track is perfect for cycling or walking, with inviting cafés scattered along the way.<br />
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When summer arrives, Jarun becomes a lively urban beach beloved by locals. Park Maksimir, another iconic park, offers a perfect walk through the woods..especially interesting for „dog people“. Park Ribnjak and Park Zrinjevac are the two special ones.
A City Shaped by Geography
Let’s go back to the city center. As soon as you arrive in Zagreb, you will realize that the river is set apart and the city is somehow „squashed“ beneath the mountain, well protected by rolling hills from the north. Nothing is wrong with that, the river was flooding frequently and the early settlers got this right. So from the the city center, noone would imagine that there is a river nearby.
The Upper Town – Where Zagreb Keeps Its Traditions Alive
The heart of Zagreb is the Upper Town (Gradec in local language), with its cobbled streets, red rooftops and the iconic tiled roof of St. Mark’s Church. History lingers around every corner, from medieval towers to hidden courtyards. Actually, two hills are overlooking each other – and on top of them, the two medieval settlements, Kaptol and Gradec.
Upper Town Magic, Lower Town Grandeur
Here you’ll find one of the city’s most charming traditions: the lamplighters who go from post to post to light the gas lamps and return in the morning to switch them off. There are 249 of these “lanterne” in the Upper Town, and it takes about two and a half hours to switch them on. Many of these lamps are replicas of the originals that lit Zagreb’s streets and squares in the 19th century, while four of them are fully restored originals. In 1907 Zagreb had electricity, all but the Upper Town...Thanks to the lanterns, the Upper Town glows in a soft, warm light that, together with the smell of roasted chestnuts, feels like stepping back in time.
And if that isn’t unusual enough, the Upper Town is also home to one of Zagreb’s quirkiest traditions: the daily cannon shot from Lotrščak Tower. Every day at noon, a single blank round is fired to mark the exact time – a tradition that has helped locals “set their watches” for over a century and remains one of the city’s most beloved soundtracks. The cannoneer Štef was there for 32 years, without a singled day of sick leave. Present canonneer is employed for the last 14 years, and this is the 5th cannon while others have been well kept in the history museum.
The funicular, 76 meters long rail road, is one of the symbols of Zagreb. It has been there for the last 130 years and the new one is now in the process of re-construction. Can you picture old-fashioned dresses and fracks moving gracefully through the Upper Town? Dora Krupićeva and Petrica Kerempuh are the characters from famous novels, brought to life as monuments, allowing reality to gently intertwine with the imaginary world. Dora was the most beautiful girl and the goldsmith’s daughter…
Lower Town and the Austro-Hungarian Legacy
A short walk downhill brings you to the Lower Town, with Austro-Hungarian architecture, leafy parks, and bustling squares that showcase the city’s European flair.
Where History Shows Up in Buildings and Bites
The Austrian influence is undeniably strong — after all, Croatia had been linked to Hungary since the 12th century through the Croatian–Hungarian Union, and later spent centuries within the Habsburg realm. Many of our customs and traditions still reflect that long shared history. The best proof of this are two: the architecture and the food!
Zagreb Is Not a Stopover — It’s the Main Event
Often underrated, Zagreb is more than a convenient stop on the way to the coast – it’s a destination in its own right. Compact, walkable, and full of character, the city offers a perfect mix of history, culture, and modern urban life.
I always say that travelling to Croatia is like visiting several countries.
The continental charm of Zagreb is both – a good starting point, or a great finish line on your path of exploration.
Culture, Food, and the Art of Living Well
Zagreb’s cultural scene is vibrant and diverse. From opera performances at the Croatian National Theatre to classical concerts and contemporary music events, there’s something for every taste. The city also hosts a wealth of small, entertaining museums, such as the quirky Museum of Broken Relationships or House of Charicature, or the Technical Museum, which may not compete with large international institutions but delight visitors with their originality and charm. Lately, there are numerous theatre productions and it’s great to hang out with friends in one of those private ones, where humor is the main focus.
From Dolac to Tkalča: Where Zagreb Really Comes Alive
Food lovers will feel equally at home. A morning stroll through Dolac Market offers a glimpse of local life, while Tkalčićeva Street teems with cafés, bistros, and lively bars. A range of four- and five-star hotels ensures comfort and style, making Zagreb ideal for a relaxing yet stimulating city break.
I could easily write an entire article about Zagreb’s restaurants, but let’s simply say this: there is truly something for every palate, from traditional taverns serving time-honoured recipes to contemporary spots where chefs reinterpret Croatian flavours with a modern twist. My love of food—and the city’s ever-evolving culinary scene—eventually inspired me to create a special The Wow Food Tour of Zagreb, where you can spend a delicious day walking, tasting and discovering Zagreb through its flavours. A perfect way to get to know the city, one bite at a time.
Zagreb’s drinking scene is wonderfully diverse. Whether you prefer a relaxed pint, a guided tasting, or a slow glass of wine in a candlelit bar, the city has the perfect spot waiting for you. Can’t wait to welcome you in Zagreb!
Finally, we shouldn’t forget the residential blocks developed in the 1970s and 1980s, mostly across the Sava River. These neighbourhoods, built during a period of Socialism faced rapid urban expansion. They may not have the charm of the historic centre, but they represent an important chapter of Zagreb’s story—everyday life, modernist architecture, and the lived-in rhythm of the city beyond the tourist paths. I reckon that our life in the ’80s remains one of the most interesting topics to revisit—full of quirky details, and a way of living that feels both familiar and worlds away from today.
A City That Stays With You
To truly appreciate it, travelers should see Zagreb not as a gateway but as a destination in its own right. For a city break filled with history, culture, gastronomy, and fresh-air escapes, Zagreb surprises and delights, leaving visitors wondering why it hasn’t always been on their radar.
I look forward to welcoming you to Zagreb and, if you wish, taking you even further—perhaps to a nearby castle or one of our charming wine regions, both just an hour’s drive from the city.
